Built by hand, fueled by passion, Sushi Bichi shines in North Beach.
BY JEN KARETNICK
Most restaurateurs are deeply involved in every aspect of opening and running their establishments. But few can say they literally built their restaurant with their own hands. James Recio, owner of Sushi Bichi in North Beach, is one of those rare individuals—driven by vision and sheer determination, he propelled the restaurant forward, often with his own physical labor.
Formerly the general manager of the Brazilian-Peruvian-Japanese restaurant SUSHISAMBA on Lincoln Road—and a
key figure in its Las Vegas and New York locations—Recio long dreamed of opening a restaurant on Ocean Terrace. Having spent summers in North Beach while growing up in Puerto Rico, he understood the warmth of the close-knit community. So,
he kept a keen eye on real estate, ultimately securing a prime corner spot.
“I knew the area was an oasis but also a vacuum when it came to commercially developed opportunities,” he says.
However, his journey was anything but smooth. After signing the lease in 2018 and securing an investor, Recio spent two years navigating permitting challenges and historic board approvals. Just as progress seemed within reach, the pandemic hit, and his investor backed out.
“I used what funds I had left for the grease trap and electrical system,” he recalls. Then, out of money, “I found myself digging a huge hole in the middle of the restaurant where the bar is.”
Recio’s perseverance paid off, along with support from his restaurant industry network. His first new investors? Former SUSHISAMBA colleagues. His first chef? Shoyo Iida, a Sapporo, Japan native and longtime collaborator. His servers? Young locals eager to be part of North Beach’s revival.
But fate had more challenges in store. Sushi Bichi opened in June 2023 to local acclaim, only to be met with construction on Ocean Terrace four months later.
“Our parking and foot traffic took a huge hit,” Recio says. “At one point, we were completely surrounded by construction, with only a chain-link corridor leading to the entrance.”
Despite setbacks, Sushi Bichi has flourished, thanks to Recio’s resilience, Iida’s sushi mastery, and the addition of Chef Byron Alabado. A first-generation Filipino-American trained at the Culinary Institute of America, Alabado worked with Recio in Las Vegas and Miami. His influence adds a Filipino touch to the menu, including his mother’s adobo chicken and turon (caramelized banana-stuffed spring rolls).
Now, with construction clearing up and ocean views restored, Sushi Bichi is thriving. Its menu is a love letter to coastal flavors from around the world—blending Japanese and Filipino influences with nods to Brazil, Mexico, and Peru. From a signature caipirinha to an array of tiraditos and ceviches, every dish tells a story.
Above all, the restaurant thrives because of the locals who embrace it—not only for its inventive dishes but for its welcoming, dog-friendly atmosphere and Recio’s neighbor-first approach.
“What matters most to me is that guests feel at home,” he says. “Ninety percent of our guests live in the neighborhood. Many of our young employees are the kids of our customers.”
Even if it took years to get here, Recio’s vision was well worth it.
